Okay, dinner last night…FABULOUS! We headed out around 7 for one of the restaurants recommended by Paolo at the B&B. Found the first place, but having no reservation, they were committed for the evening (and I didn’t want to sit outside; too chilly!) Headed to recommendation #2, and they were closed…so, decided to wander ourselves! Found Café Tosca situated very close to Puccini’s place of birth (they had a statue of him in the square out front) and headed inside. Well…wow! Linda ordered a plate of grilled vegetables, on which she used balsamic vinegar and oil. I started with a “tower” made of grilled eggplant, tomatoes and smoked cheese – terrific. I then followed with “pieces of chicken” which turned out to be breast white meat cooked in a balsamic reduction and served on top of arugula, which I shared with Linda. One of the BEST things I’ve eaten this trip! And we got there without a recommendation! For dessert Linda had vin santo with biscotti and I had their gelato crema (vanilla gelato) all washed down with a bottle of wine from the Lucca area. Everything was great! Back to the B&B and to bed about 10:30 p.m. Lovely day in Lucca!
Up around 7:30 a.m. (I know…lazy louts!) and down to breakfast a little after 8. They served the “usual suspects” but we were both happy. Then, out for the trek across town to Piazzle Verde and the bus to Pisa. Bought our tickets in the office, and climbed right aboard Bus #7. It takes about half an hour to get to Pisa, stopping along the way to pick up other passengers, and we were let off right at the Field of Miracles where the Leaning Tower is located – along with the Duomo, Baptistry and several museums.
Got a kick out of SO many people making as if to prop up the Leaning Tower – they were EVERYWHERE! Bought tickets to the Duomo and the Baptistry, as Linda not insistent on climbing up the tower; I have already been up once, and still remember the feeling of knowing I was going to topple off the top of the tower!
The Duomo was incredibly lovely, both inside and out; carvings, paintings and mosaics galore! So nice to be able to take pictures – which I did…as you’ll be able to see! Just the pulpit took years and years of work, as I’m sure you’ll be able to tell. Interestingly enough, the altar and second pulpit was of very modern (2000) design; made an interesting juxtaposition.
Across the piazza from the Duomo is the Baptistry, a round building with amazing acoustics – every half hour, one of the guards sings a few notes (imagine that job description!) and it is incredible hearing the voice and the echoes from each other. We were up in the gallery when it happened – just amazing to hear!
We then headed around the tower; lots of photographic opportunities! It is a lovely construction – although if it ever were to be set straight, the top would actually bend over, as the builders tried to compensate for the lean as they were putting it up!
It was beginning to sprinkle, so we decided to head back to Lucca for lunch. Along the way, we passed by stall after stall of goods for sale; everything from t-shirts and scarves to leather goods! There were even t-shirts with Homer Simpson, Bart and Snoopy holding up the Tower! I am curious about the “Duff” t-shirts---have seen a few around…WHY??? - Linda And that’s where I decided to see what I could find to act as a better camera case. Robert never did get a proper camera case when he got his new camera, and I was using a small carry-all that we already have. However, with guide book, water, umbrella, Kleenex and change purse inside, there was absolutely NO room for the camera! So, found a GREAT red leather bag that I can use as a small back-pack or as a purse over my shoulder! Very convenient!
Caught the bus right in front of the piazza after all of a minute or two wait, and were back in Lucca about 12:30 p.m. Returned to the B&B to shift goods into the new bag, then out again for lunch.
Headed to Da Leo, recommended by Paolo -- very crowded both inside and out, but they found us a table for two very quickly. We both ordered their Tuscan vegetable and bread soup – truly incredible, along with a small carafe of red wine as well as water. The restaurant was really buzzing – they seem to turn people over in a very short time, although to be honest, we never felt rushed at all! The place was also decorated for Halloween- been wondering about that here…Linda Just a great family-owned and operated place to eat, very typical of what we’ve been finding here in Tuscany.
There were several churches here in Lucca that we wanted to see, but as it turns out, in winter (or whatever season this is) the churches close from about noon to 3 p.m. So, back to the B&B for a bit of a rest, and then out to see if they had reopened! (It is Monday, you know, and many shops and restaurants are closed either all of Monday, or at the very least, Monday morning!)
San Martino is the Cathedral, but does NOT allow photography of any kind! Also, it was partly under construction so only certain parts are open to view. It’s really great that the buildings are being taken care of, but it does mean that we will definitely have to come back at some future time! From there we went to Chiesa de San Giovanni, which is interesting in that it appears to be part of an on-going archeological dig; very interesting things, and obviously in use in one form or another for a VERY long time! From there to San Giusto and finally S. Michelle – the one with an incredibly beautiful exterior, but almost nothing inside! (Very disappointing!)
By this time, we were just about “churched” out, so returned to the B&B and now the blog! So! More tomorrow!
Much love,
m
x
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